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ASICS

Gel-Kayano 14

An almost-overlooked retro running shoe that became a modern-day fashion icon.

ASICS Gel-Kayano 14
© ASICS

A well-respected series

The ASICS Gel-Kayano is one of the brand’s most well-respected and enduring lines of athletic footwear, going all the way back to 1993. Infused with cutting-edge Gel cushioning, each iteration was supportive and comfortable, with the designers always prioritising performance over looks. So, while they were often popular amongst the running community, they were rarely considered fashionable as such. However, by the 2020s, trends had changed, and the retro aesthetic of the brand’s Gel-cushioned running shoes from the 1990s and 2000s was suddenly the height of style. As a result, ASICS brought back several heritage silhouettes, but the one that had the most profound impact was the iconic Gel-Kayano 14.

© ASICS

An uncertain future

By the time ASICS released the Gel-Kayano 14 in 2008, the line was well-established, and each new model was greeted with excitement and anticipation by runners both in Japan and abroad in countries like the United States, where recreational running had been growing in popularity since the 1970s. However, despite its strong reputation, the series was entering an uncertain era as its legendary founder and namesake, Toshikazu Kayano, was no longer part of the design team. The visionary designer, who remained in the company and eventually became a curator of the ASICS archives, had been instrumental in the success of the original Gel-Kayano Trainer and oversaw the technological evolution of the series in the years that followed, crafting the first thirteen iterations and establishing it as a well-respected model in running circles. Without his leadership, it was unclear whether these high standards could be maintained.

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A legacy of design principles

Hoping to start this new era strongly, ASICS looked to a young designer by the name of Hidenori Yamashita. Having already worked on the brand’s Gel-cushioned sneakers, he was familiar with the Kayano line and could also use Toshikazu’s firm design principles as guidance for his work. As the series evolved, Toshikazu had followed the Japanese philosophy of ‘kaizen’, which focused on making gradual but continuous improvements over time to create the best possible shoe in the given moment. Toshikazu had thus employed the latest ASICS technologies with every update, giving Yamashita an outstanding platform on which to build his Gel-Kayano 14. He also left a strong legacy of practices for his young colleague to work from, including the idea of having a solid design story behind every shoe and using scientific and customer insights as well as market trends to learn how best to meet the wants and needs of his audience. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, Toshikazu passed on his playful spirit, which infused each design with the kind of passion and joy that could capture the heart of any athlete.

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Finding inspiration

Following these ideals, Yamashita began to think about his own story and how he could build on the sturdy foundations left by his predecessor to create a technologically advanced running shoe worthy of the Gel-Kayano name. While previous versions had been inspired by everything from insects to watches and European sports cars, Yamashita was taken by the notion of ‘flash’, or as he put it: “that burst of action where the runner lands at the heel and pushes away at the toes.” This informed every single aspect of the Gel-Kayano 14, and the result was a dynamic high-performance running shoe that would go on to become one of the most iconic silhouettes in the history of the brand.

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A high-performance design

When ASICS first released the Gel-Kayano 14 in 2008, it was quickly recognised as an improvement over the 13. Runners benefitted from better cushioning and support, not least because of the heel Gel insert, which was 25% bigger than that of its predecessor. This was further protected by a resin plate to reduce any over-compression, while a layer of the brand’s proprietary Solyte foam added lightweight shock absorption from midfoot to heel. Soft yet durable, this material also offered a good level of responsiveness, helping the wearer to run with more energy. A second Gel insert cushioned the forefoot, and the midfoot was stabilised by a rigid Trusstic support plate. Meanwhile, the complex geometric tread design delivered powerful traction from heel to toe, with flex grooves allowing free range of movement for a smooth transition through the foot. Together, these multiple supportive tiers formed ASICS’ “Structured Cushioning” system, which was designed to aid pronators without producing the heavy, bulky feel normally associated with stability shoes. Alongside this, the Gel-Kayano 14 had a breathable mesh upper with durable synthetic leather panelling, reflective elements, an updated heel fit and a roomy toe box, so it could comfortably support runners over hundreds of miles while greatly reducing the chance of injury. It offered all the aspects of ‘flash’ Yamashita had hoped for, from its protected heel landing to its energetic toe-off. Not only did this make it a popular option amongst the athletic community, it also saw the shoe receive awards from respected running publications. Meanwhile, although not considered a fashion item at the time, its swooping overlays, striking sidewall stripes, glossy visible Gel and overall sleek, futuristic aesthetic gave it a charismatic look that drew attention off the track as well.

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New trends, new partnerships

After a successful period as one of the brand’s top running shoes, the Gel-Kayano 14 was replaced by a newer model, and it soon went out of production. However, a decade later, both the sporting and fashion landscapes had changed, presenting the perfect environment for an astounding comeback. The foundations were set in 2018, when ASICS responded to the growing trend for old-school mesh running shoes by relaunching the Gel-Kayano 5. Its classy throwback style was welcomed by the fashion community, especially after it was featured in collaborations with Berlin label GmbH and legendary British designer Vivienne Westwood. This precipitated a deeper move into the industry, and soon, ASICS had established a strong relationship with up-and-coming Bulgarian menswear designer Kiko Kostadinov. After first working with ASICS in 2018, Kostadinov went beyond being a mere collaborator, transitioning into more of a brand consultant as the trust grew between the two parties. It was this partnership that brought about the magnificent return of the Gel-Kayano 14. In fact, without it, the 2008 silhouette may have forever remained a part of ASICS history.

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A compelling choice

Following the prosperous return of the Gel-Kayano 5 and the ever-increasing popularity of Y2K runners and dad shoes, ASICS delved into its archives once more to see which other models could achieve success in the modern era. In 2020, its executives were poised to relaunch the Gel-Kayano 13 – after all, it was the last one in the line designed by its namesake founder and a great way to celebrate his legacy. However, Kostadinov thought otherwise, suggesting that the 14 would be a more compelling choice for its futuristic aesthetic and the exhilarating feeling of speed it evoked. The brand was convinced, and Yamashita was recalled to reproduce his classic silhouette for a retro release.

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Modern updates and a classic look

Far from simply releasing the exact same shoe, Yamashita gave the ASICS Gel-Kayano 14 a contemporary upgrade, incorporating the most up-to-date materials to make it even more lightweight and flexible than the original. The upper was also refined for even more comfort and a more secure fit, with the addition of recycled materials and more eco-friendly manufacturing processes to enhance its sustainability. Fundamentally, though, it retained all of the supportive performance technologies which had made the original such a beloved piece of athletic footwear. Meanwhile, the outer featured the classic look of the 2000s runner, its mesh upper and curvilinear overlays exuding captivating retro sporting vibes that embodied the ubiquitous streetwear trends of the early 2020s. Its original features and winning aesthetic intact, the Gel-Kayano 14 was the perfect blend of performance and style, appealing to modern sneaker enthusiasts and casual fans alike.

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The bold UB1-S

In line with his elevated position within ASICS’ community of designers, Kiko Kostadinov was an integral part of the Gel-Kayano 14’s relaunch. While Yamashita was busy creating stylish retro colourways with throwback metallic silver panelling and vivid tonal accents that evoked his original ‘flash’ concept, Kostadinov and his innovative studio reimagined the shoe’s aesthetic by experimenting with different materials and colour combinations. They produced a set of four distinctive versions of his UB1-S model, each with a characteristic elongated pull tab emerging from the patch-free tongue. Technology-wise, the Kiko Kostadinov Gel-Kayano 14 was just like Yamashita’s, offering the same powerful combination of comfort, stability and support, just with the inventive Bulgarian’s bold, fashion-forward style, which allowed it to transcend its running shoe history and become renowned for its charismatic looks as well as its performance.

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‘Rebirth of Cool’

With Yamashita’s intimate knowledge of the shoe, Kostadinov’s invaluable design input and a timely on-trend release schedule, the Gel-Kayano 14 was quickly adopted in the world of fashion. Off the back of this, ASICS released a run of new colourways in 2021, and soon, more of the brand’s ever-increasing list of collaborative partners sought to put their own creative touch onto the retro silhouette. The first to do so was Awake NY founder Angelo Baque, whose eye for vibrant contemporary design saw him produce the unforgettable ‘Rebirth of Cool’ colourway in bright shades of blue, yellow and red that paid homage to his Ecuadorian heritage. It was released with a slick black-and-white short film of Baque introducing a performance by rapper Ladybug Mecca at New York’s historic Nuyorican Poets Café. In it, various members of the band and audience could be seen wearing his Gel-Kayano 14, depicting it as a cool, casual sneaker for laid-back socialising. Meanwhile, Mecca and the band played a version of “Rebirth of Slick (Cool Like Dat)” – the first single released by her rap trio, Digable Planets, in 1993 – thus connecting its name to Baque’s inspirations and even signifying the silhouette’s own ‘rebirth’. 

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Early collaborations

The Angelo Baque x Gel-Kayano 14 was incredibly popular, and in 2022, ASICS expanded its collaborative roster to encompass celebrity photographer Renell Medrano and her boutique clothing label, Ice Studios, and DJ and producer Zack Bia’s newly founded record label, Field Trip Recordings. While Medrano designed an elegant light blue sneaker with yellow accents inspired by her photography and her affection for ice, Bia created an extremely limited version in contrasting white and black with a vintage-looking cream-coloured midsole. Alongside this, Japanese clothing brand BEAMS put out an eccentric shoe featuring a GORE-TEX upper shrouded in a black mosquito net, but it was ASICS’ collaboration with Canadian design studio JJJJound that really drew the attention of the fashion community at large.

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An outstanding debut

For its debut ASICS collaboration, Justin R. Saunders’ nostalgic yet innovative label crafted two understated, minimalist colourways with elegant neutral tones that encapsulated both ASICS’ signature look and the timeless sophistication associated with JJJJound’s clothing. These refined sneakers tapped into the Kayano 14’s vintage Y2K roots and sporting history while also offering a level of versatility that would allow the wearer to move effortlessly between home, leisure and formal occasions in stylish comfort. As a result, it achieved widespread appeal, becoming one of the brand’s most popular collaborations, not only for the Gel-Kayano 14, but also the entire Kayano line and even the wider Sportstyle range.

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A sought-after fashion item

The JJJJound collaboration showcased just how far the Gel-Kayano 14 had come from its running shoe origins, truly launching it as a sought-after fashion item. Influential celebrities like Hailey Bieber began wearing it, the American model and creative director repeatedly showing up to pilates class in the Field Trip Recordings edition, thus proving its stylistic versatility and athleisure capabilities. As the silhouette took hold in the fashion industry, ASICS demonstrated again and again that it was one of the best brands in the world at recruiting exceptional creative talent, many of whom were keen to use it as their collaborative canvas. Between collaborations, celebrity endorsements and social media appearances, Yamashita’s epic Gel-Kayano 14 became incredibly popular amongst younger generations but was also still beloved by those who could remember the original as well as passionate sneaker enthusiasts enthralled by its powerful history.

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Deepening relationships

In January 2023, ASICS hosted a pop-up store at Paris Fashion Week, further enhancing its high-fashion credentials, and throughout the year, the brand deepened its relationships with clothing labels such as Ronnie Fieg’s Kith and Japanese boutique atmos. The former designed two colourways in typically elegant hues, while the latter teamed up with South Korean streetwear brand Undermycar, putting a sleek, futuristic twist on the shoe. Unaffected, another Asian fashion label, then released a bold three-pack of Gel-Kayano 14s with a reimagined lacing system, and Canadian lifestyle brand Aritzia brought its compelling ‘everyday luxury’ concept to the silhouette with a graceful three-pack of its own.

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Honouring history

2023 also marked the 30th anniversary of the Gel-Kayano line, and ASICS chose to celebrate this by adding a brand new sneaker to the collection. Known as the Gel-Kayano Legacy, it brought together elements of past models as its designer, Yuuki Okumura, sought to pay homage to the Kayano’s deep heritage by presenting the key functional features and distinctive details from each era of the shoe. From the Gel-Kayano 14, he took the entire sole unit, thus showing the silhouette’s impact on the series and highlighting how effective its Structured Cushioning concept still was, even three decades after its initial creation.

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Expanding collaborations

The Gel-Kayano 14’s popularity intensified even further in 2024, and dozens of eye-catching new colourways were released alongside yet more collaborations. Atmos revisited the silhouette with a design featuring tones inspired by Tokyo’s vibrant nightlife, and Field Trip Recordings returned with the unmissable ‘Fern Green’ colourway. Meanwhile, Kith continued its run of Marvel-themed sneakers through the ‘Silver Surfer’ edition, and ASICS expanded its Asian roster through collaborations with South Korean brand The Museum Visitor and the Singaporean duo of sneaker boutique Limited Edt and sneaker artist Mark Ong’s SBTG label. The brand also increased its global reach by partnering with Brazilian menswear label P. Andrade on a colourful design whose shimmering natural tones reflected the country’s vibrant landscapes before working with the Ayrton Senna Institute to celebrate the life and career of the enigmatic Brazilian Formula 1 driver. The year ended with two unique Gel-Kayano 14 collaborations, one with American creative label Concepts, whose brightly coloured ‘Out of Office’ edition was made to free the wearer from the daily grind by evoking the peace and relaxation of a sun-drenched vacation. The other was designed as part of ASICS’ ‘Crafts For Minds’ initiative with creative director Florence Tétier, who chose the Kayano 14 alongside two Gel-Nimbus silhouettes because she herself was a fan. Working with pupils from Ecole Les Petites Ruches – a school for neurodiverse children that fosters learning through nature, inclusion and connection – Tétier crafted one-of-a-kind beads and charms for each shoe from upcycled toys and other waste materials, with the profits returning directly to the inspirational school.

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An even bigger year

Following other collaborations with premier American lifestyle brand Lapstone and Hammer and high-end menswear label 8ON8, ASICS entered 2025 with even bigger plans for the Gel-Kayano 14. Alongside an extensive collection of captivating general release sneakers, the brand crafted some of its most beloved collaborative colourways to date, starting with the elegant ‘Eucalyptus’ edition from influential stylist Juliana Salazar, before once again elevating Japanese culture through partnerships with fashion brands like Beauty & Youth and Urban Research, as well as quirky storytelling rock band Zutomayo. In the spring, ASICS launched the sought-after ‘Just Say No’ colourway as an exclusive with Los Angeles-based clothing boutique Sneaker Politics and also linked up with French luxury brand A.P.C. to curate its very first comprehensive collection of tennis apparel featuring a two-pack of timeless Gel-Kayano 14s amongst its off-court items. Around this time, rumours began to circulate that JJJJound would be returning to add a third sneaker to its collaborative set in the summer, generating even more excitement around the retro silhouette. This long-awaited follow-up eventually launched in June 2025 and featured a pair of graceful colourways each decorated in a signature blend of neutral and metallic silver tones, with elegant blue accents on one and dark navy alongside vivid yellow on the other. Understated, classy and highly sophisticated, they epitomised everything that the modern fashion and sneaker communities had come to cherish about the Gel-Kayano 14.

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An outstanding modern sneaker

The foundations for the Gel-Kayano 14’s success were set when Toshikazu Kayano joined ASICS in the late 1980s – long before its modern-day return. His arrival coincided with the introduction of Gel cushioning, which he was able to use to launch his running shoe series with confidence, knowing that it would offer tremendous underfoot support. Using his characteristic approach, he infused the Kayano line with his joyful spirit and powerful work ethic, and it was this that ultimately carried through to each subsequent model, even after he moved on to other things. So, when Hidenori Yamashita took the reins, he followed Kayano’s principles and crafted an exceptional running shoe. Thanks to this, the Gel-Kayano 14 has consistently been lauded as one of the most comfortable sneakers around since its contemporary return. Now considered more of a lifestyle silhouette than a sporting one, this iconic shoe is boldly stylish and unbelievably versatile, with some of the greatest ASICS collaborations elevating  its ever-expanding back-catalogue. Far from a mere nostalgic gimmick, its compelling retro charm is backed up by outstanding technological performance – in short, the Gel-Kayano 14 is the pinnacle of the ASICS Sportstyle range.

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